Stocking Island with anchorage in the background

Dear readers,

It has been a while, way too long since the last time we wrote about our adventures. Maybe it was Georgetown that did that to us. It was after all our most southern destination for this year long trip. We were debating about going to Long Island or the Ragged Islands, but a quick look on a map at the distance to sail between Georgetown and Maine made our decision easy. From now on we will be traveling north, all the way to Maine, where we are planning to leave the boat for the summer.

Georgetown has such a reputation among cruisers. Some love it, some dislike it. Some only stop for stocking on food, fuel, water, while others spend their complete cruising season there. We hear good and bad things about that destination. For us it was a relaxing pleasant stay, a change from the deserted beaches and islands, a time to socialize, take yoga classes on the beach, play volleyball, party, dance, etc…we had a wonderful time. And we stocked on food!

Entrance under the little bridge to the dinghy docks – sometimes there was a traffic jam!

Actually, by saying Georgetown we are misleading you. Georgetown is on the Great Exuma Island, and across the harbor and channel is Stocking Island. There is anchorage on both side of the channel, and usually boats move from one side of the channel to the other side to get a better protection when the wind changes direction. We took a mooring ball on Stocking Island for few days, ended up keeping it for 2 weeks and we ignored the ever changing wind, which never got too too strong. It was rolly at times but it was nice to not move for 2 weeks, our longest stay in almost 9 months of cruising. It felt like we were living on a boat versus traveling/cruising, and it was a welcome break.  Taking classes in the morning, exploring during the afternoon, enjoying happy hour and music, dinners with friends, that was the closest schedule we had that resemble living on land.

Happy hour at Chat and chill bar

The popular Chat & chill beach.  That was the first beach on our trip where there was more the a few people on the beach, and where I even saw some people going in the water. It was a welcome change.

Chat and chill, beach is more quiet early morning!

 

 

This is a baby stingray (in light grey) attached to its mother’s back.

And while in that area we had a chance to meet Sally and Mike, fellow Vermonters who spent most of their winter in their house in Georgetown. Our friend Pat and Nick had given us their contact info and we had the pleasure to spend time with them. They drove us all around the island, they brought us to the grocery, pharmacy, hardware store, etc.. and concluded the day with an excellent meal at their place. It was nice to talk with them about the island and its inhabitants, the lifestyle, politics, etc… We also met Sally one day at the library where she volunteers and it was interesting to chat with local people who are born on this island, and the changes that the cruisers bring to the town.

Sally at the library, which has quite a good collection of books and interesting display about the history of the island.

In the height of the cruising season it can be up to 400 boats anchored in the area. The cruisers know very well the schedule of the mailboat and when the grocery supplies arrive. That can create a competitive atmosphere at the grocery store which has no more the 5-7 rows . We didn’t want to deal with that, therefore we went to the store few days after it was re-supplied but we were lucky to find some fresh fruits, vegetables, and a bunch of dry supplies for our sail north.

The anchorage at night on Stocking Island.  So many lights.  It can be hard to find your boat when returning late at night in the dinghy.

400 boats in the area can be taxing for a small town, but cruisers really try hard to help and contribute to the well-being of the local residents. While there, there was a Junkanoo parade organized by the cruisers. All tickets and merchandises proceed went to the local school. We also heard that there is a bicycle race on the island organize by 4 canadians and all the proceed go to the local community.

Junkanoo is a festival that started in the 1700’s either in the Bahamas or Jamaica and is celebrated by the descendants of enslaved people in the former British colonies in the West Indies.  It usually occurs during Christmas week, with the biggest parades happening on Boxing Day (12/26) and New Years Eve.

It has evolved to be a huge party and competition with teams from many islands competing for quite large prizes.  The costumes are incredibly elaborate and take the whole year to complete and can cost up to $100k! Some of them were almost parade floats and needed wheels for the person to move.  All costumes apparently have to be human powered with no vehicles.

Each group had dancers, a brass band, lots of drummers and kalik (cowbells on handles) players.  It was LOUD!!

Ours was adapted to the cruiser life and started late afternoon. There were dancers and musicians from 3 different islands, plus one parade done by the cruisers. Being on the water and on desolated islands for so long, the dance and the music were a treat and we enjoyed every moment of it.

Here’s a few videos:

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Junkanoo Dancers

Music!

 

Overall, our time in Georgetown was fun, busy, and relaxing.  After 2 weeks it all started to get a bit much, so we started our journey back north again.  More to follow!

Here are some more photos of our time in Georgetown.

Master conch salad on Stocking Island. Conch salad is a mix of fresh raw diced conch, diced tomatoes, cucumbers and onions all marinated in citrus juice. Very similar to ceviche and delicious!

 

 

 

 

 

We got help opening the coconut we gathered.

 

 

The water, always mesmerizing.

 

Bye bye Georgetown!